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Marni's SS 2016 Collection: Pop Art, 3D Printing, and the "Fussbett"




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Marni's SS 2016 Collection: Pop Art, 3D Printing, and the "Fussbett"

Danielle Greene

"Trends aren't important for us. We don't look at them. We do what we like. The woman who buys Marni, she isn't going to get rid of something the next season. She doesn't get bored of it. She can wear it another way, with something new, or from three years ago. Our clients love our clothes and hold on to them." Consuelo Castiglioni, 2014, interview with the UK Telegraph.

Consuelo Castiglioni, who established Marni with her husband in 1994, is still at the helm of the label which has enchanted us through organic form, volume, and expertly synthesizing whimsy and craft-much like the 1960s Pop Art movement. 

Themes of Marni's SS 2016 Collection included punchy pallets, layering, and geometry—themes Marni regularly engages but always with a fresh perspective. This time, standout looks combined red draped dresses with paillettes peeking through at the hem; pink leather vests paired with pops of blue and yellow; and a top and skirt consisting of dozens of fabric circles in blue, white, yellow, red, and brown.

Also featured in the collection were Castiglioni’s “fussbett”—ugly shoes that have been a trademark of the label for decades, and have been redone by several other labels. In a 2014 interview with the Telegraph, she talks about the first time “fussbett” appeared in 2000: “We did 'fussbett' before everybody else - now you see everyone doing them…Gianni [CEO of Marni and husband] didn't like them at first, but he got used to them. He said. 'Are you sure?' I said, 'Sì!!!' And now we sell huge numbers of them.”

Marni Fussbett2.jpg

The collection ended with a trio of unconventional black cocktail dresses that were floor length, beautifully draped, and playful. Below is my favorite, the Collection's final look.

Marni RTW Spring 2016